Tour I - To Babur's Gardens and the Kabul Museum
Of Special Interest
- Amir Abdur Rahman's Mausoleum [3]
- Afghan Tourist Organization [12]
- Shah-do-Shamshira Mosque [13]
- Babur's Garden [20]
- Chilsitoon Gardens [31]
- Darulaman [41]
- Kabul Museum [42]
- Rishkhor and Gulbagh [49]
- Timur Shah's Mausoleum [55]
Minimum time for complete tour: 3 hours
Pushtunistan Square. The large fountain in the center of Pushtunistan Square was completed for Jeshn, 1962.
Rising from a mass of boulders on one side of the fountain, the Pushtunistan
flag flies above a monument emblazoned with a rising sun behind the mountains, the Pushtunistan emblem. Pushtunistan Day is celebrated in this square each year on August 31st.
The Khyber Restaurant occupies the eastern side of the square, on the ground floor of the Ministry of Finance.
It is a popular meeting place in Kabul, especially during the summer when sidewalk tables
set under gay umbrellas beckon weary sightseers. The Ariana Cinema next to the restaurant shows foreign pictures in many different languages. The Central Telegraph Office, which also houses a
post office, is located in Pushtunistan Square, in the southwest corner.
[1] Leaving Pushtunistan Square, proceed northwest on Ibn Sena Wat passing the
Kabul Hotel on your left and on your right the large building of the Bank-i-Milli and the D'Afghanistan Bank. The Bank-i-Milli was the
first bank to be established in Afghanistan, in 1933.
[2] On your right at the traffic light, note the large rounded bastions flanking the side gate to the royal palace. Proceed straight ahead through the traffic light. The first building
on your right is the old Kabul Cinema, built originally as Amir Abdur Rahman's Salaam Khana-i-Khas or Private Audience Hall. At the end of the 19th century, it was a most attractive pillared
hall hung with gold damask curtains; today it is marked for demolition. The Lycee Istikal, an intermediate school for boys founded in 1922 during the reign of King Amanullah, stands next to the
cinema. Istikal was first established as a boarding school in Jebal Seraj. Now only an hour's drive from Kabul, Jebal Seraj was then a long journey by horseback for most of the students, so the
school was relocated within the palace grounds. The sprawling buildings built at that time were torn down in 1970 to make way for the tall modern building now in the final stages of completion.
Istikal is co-educational today.
[3] Across from the Lycee Istikal, on the left, the imposing Mausoleum of Amir Abdur Rahman (r. 1880-1901)
stands on the edge of Zarnegar (Adorned with Gold) Park. A long inscription beside the main door tells us that this was one of several buildings built in this area by Abdur Rahman when he first
came to Kabul as Amir, and that it was especially favoured by him as a private palace where he could relax and entertain personal friends away from formal ceremony of court life in the
Arg Palace. Known as the Bustan Serai (Orchard Garden), its gardens, originally laid out in the 15th century by Ulugh Beg, the Emperor
Babur's uncle, were famed throughout the country down through the beginning of the 20th century. Tour directions resume [10].
[4] In 1902, a year after the Amir was laid to rest here, his son, Amir Habibullah, (r. 1901-1919) held memorial services for his father at the mausoleum to inaugurate repairs on the
building. During the next three years, much of the original woodwork was replaced by plaster; mud bricks were exchanged for more durable dark-red burnt bricks; and an upper portion, trimmed with
light blue brick and ornately decorated with many small minarets surrounding an iron cupola topped with a golden spire, was added. Since 1964, whitewash of varying hues has covered the original
red brick facade. The architectural style is distinctly that of Amir Abdur Rahman and aptly expresses the vigorous personality of one of Afghanistan's most dynamic rulers.
[5] Amir Habibullah also built a small mosque at the mausoleum. The mosque was built for the exclusive use of certain Hafiz, mullahs capable of reciting the Holy Koran from memory who are
often to be found in attendance at holy shrines in Afghanistan. There are numbers of them today, for instance, at the mausoleum of Khwaja Abdullah Ansari in Herat. During the reign of King
Amanullah, the mosque was used by students from the Lycee Istikal who met for religious education classes in the mausoleum. For some time during King Amanullah's reign, the mausoleum also served
as Kabul's public library and many rare manuscripts were looted from it after Bacha Saqao's forces took control of the city.
[6] On the other side of the mausoleum there were other palace buildings, the most beautifully decorated of which was called the Zarnegar Palace from which the park takes its name. In this
building the Anglo-Afghan Treaty ratifying Afghanistan's fully independent status was signed in November 1921. It then became the first Ministry of Foreign Affairs and later a part of the
Ministry of Education, before being torn down in 1964 to make way for the park.
[7] At the foot of the palace gardens, toward the river, there was another very interesting building originally left standing by the city planners but subsequently demolished. A curious
wooden building on stilts, it was the palace storehouse for sweets. Since it represented a colourful phase of court life, a few words about it may not be out of place here, even though it is now
gone.
[8] During the reigns of Amir Abdur Rahman and his successors, the distribution of sweets formed an important part of state ceremonies which took place on national holidays. Each
notable who came to pay his respects to the Amir at the Salaam Khana was presented with a bright coloured silk handkerchief filled with a conical brick of sugar, the size dependent upon his
rank, and a pound or two of sugared nuts (shirni). As great numbers came to these functions, and since family festivities in the palace attending engagements and weddings also required similar
presentations, the volume of sweets distributed from the palace was considerable and required a large storehouse. Outside the storehouse, there was an iron cupola which stood above the scales
used for weighing each individual's portion.
[9] Adjoining the Bustan Serai there was another garden known as the Gulistan Serai (Rose Garden); Bustan and Gulistan being the titles of two popular works by the famous 13th century
poet, Sadi. In the Gulistan Serai, Amir Abdur Rahman built palaces for his beautiful and vivacious Queen Halima. Only one of these buildings remains. This, a small square house opposite the
Ministry of Education [11], is known as Bobo Jan's, the name by which Queen Halima was familiarly known. Designed by an architect from Bokhara, the facade and woodwork is elaborately
decorated with foliated scrolls and birds; motifs frequently found today on bridal silver and jewelry. Other items of historical interest in the park are the tombs of two of King Amanullah's
brothers, Hayatullah and Abdul Majid Khan, who were killed during the Bacha Saqao troubles in 1929 and which lie within a marble enclosure embellished with the royal crest; and the tombs of
two holy men, one of whom, Muhammad Ibn Ahmad-ul-Hissari (d. 1430), lies beneath a cupola. He was a disciple of Khwaja Nakhshband (1317-1389), the famous mystic and patron saint of Bokhara
during the time of Tamerlane.
[10] Continue on Ibn Sena Wat to the next stoplight at Shah Mahmud Ghazi Square, named after King Nadir Shah's youngest brother who served Afghanistan as Prime Minister and Minister of
War. The Kabul Public Library is located beside the grove of trees to your right on Shah Mahmud Ghazi Square. In 1966, the library of the Ministry of Information and Culture and the Ministry of
Education were combined to form a collection of 10,000 volumes. Many of these are rare volumes in English and other European languages. Though it is not a lending library, interested readers
are most welcome. Turn left onto Muhammad Jan Khan Wat. (Straight ahead to Jadi Wilayat lined with shops selling fur-lined coats called pusteens, jewelry, textiles, antiques and imported
goods; the offices of the Governor of Kabul. Right to the Foreign Ministry and Shahr-i-Nau, Tour III.) Muhammad Jan Khan Wat is named after a patriotic
chief from Wardak who led the tribesmen against the British in 1879. Forcing General Roberts to retire behind the walls of the Sherpur cantonments in December, the Afghans, under his
leadership, besieged the British for nine days.
[11] On Muhammad Jan Khan Wat, the new Ministry of Education building with its gleaming facade stands on the right, the downtown petrol station and the Municipality Building on the left.
Directly ahead is the village of Deh Afghanan, one of Kabul's most ancient landmarks. Almost all of the 12 bombs dropped during the aerial bombing in 1919 fell in this area, killing, it is
said, one person and 40 horses. The city planners envision tall modern buildings for Deh Afghanan in the future. The village stands on the slopes of Asmai Heights, Asmai being the name of the
Great Mother Goddess of nature, a very ancient name dating from the Hindu Shahi period. A temple dedicated to this goddess is located in the Asmai Section. The beginning of the Salang Highway to
northern Afghanistan was cut through the city at the base of the Asmai Heights in 1969. It branches off to the right just beyond the Ministry of Education.
[12] Rounding the curve on Mohammad Jan Khan Wat, one notes many modern stores and small hotels which have sprung up in the last few years to attract the ever-increasing number of
visitors to Kabul. At the traffic circle, another new street, Asmai Street, has been cut through on the right, between the Plaza and Park Hotels. Turn right. (The Ministry of Information and
Culture which houses the Afghan Tourist Organization on the 1st floor and the Spinzar Hotel,
stands just beyond the circle, on the left.)
[13] Asmai Street will eventually run straight through to the river, but for the time being, it makes a sharp left to join Sipah Salar Muhammad Nadir Khan Wat where there is a stoplight.
The bridge called Pul-i-Shah-do-Shamshira lies directly ahead and the large two-storied mosque stands to the left.
This is the Masjid-i-Shah-do-Shamshira Mosque, the Mosque of the King of Two Swords, which was built by order of King
Amanullah's (r. 1919-1929) mother on the site of one of Kabul's earliest mosques. Hundreds come to this mosque on the 10th of Muharram, the anniversary of the martyrdom of Husain, grandson of
the Prophet Mohammad, son of Ali. In addition, condolence services for prominent Afghans are often held here. In the foyer of the
Kabul Museum you may see the plaque carved for the dedication of the mosque in 1554. Across the street from the mosque, ibex horns decorate
the entrance of the Ziarat-i-Shah-do-Shamshira. Early Islamic sources tell us that in the 7th century, when Islam first entered Kabul, there was a very important Hindu temple here and even today,
one of Kabul's most important Hindu temples is located close by. The Ziriat is dedicated to the memory of an early Islamic commander who fell here during a fierce battle against the Hindus,
fighting with a sword in each hand.
[14] Turn right onto Sipah Salar Muhammad Nadir Khan Wat, named for King Nadir Shah (r. 1929-1933) when he was Commander-in-Chief. In 1929, Nadir Khan made his triumphal entry into Kabul
via this road two days after the city had been taken by his brother, Sardar Shah Wali Khan. Nadir Khan had crossed over from the Logar Valley into Darulaman.
[15] On your left you pass the present location of the Nejat School for boys. The school will soon shift to ultra-modern quarters currently nearing completion on the road to the
airport, across from the Ariana Hotel. The Education Press is located next to the school on the left, and the Government Monopolies Building
stands across the street from the Press on the right. A large gateway just beyond the Monopolies leads to the extensive grounds of the government workshops. Established by Amir Abdur Rahman in
1887, these were the first industrial buildings to be built in Kabul and they were known as the Machine Khana (Machine House). During his reign there were many types of factories here
including Kabul's first press which was used to print Kabul's first significant newspaper, the Seraj-ul-Akhbar, edited by Mahmud Beg Tarzi, which began publication in 1911. Today only the
mint and ammunition factory remain in operation.
[16] While passing the workshops, note a spur behind the buildings of the Avicenna Hospital across the river to the left. Cursory excavations here uncovered 60 stucco heads proving this to
have been the site of a Buddhist community of the Kushano-Sassanian period of the 3rd-4th centuries. The site is known as Tepe Khazana, Treasure Hill. The straight line of trees that runs along
the mountainside marks a jui (water canal) built in the 15th century by Ulugh Beg to bring water from the mountains of Gulbagh [49], about ten miles to the southeast, to
Bala Hissar. It is still in use today.
[17] During the days of the Moghul Emperors, there were beautiful gardens along both sides of the river in this area. In describing his visit to Kabul in 1607, the Emperor Janhangir wrote:
"I perambulated seven of the famous gardens of Kabul. I do not think that I ever walked so far before." In these gardens the court spent many enjoyable hours, a favorite being the
Shahrara Garden laid out by Babur's aunt along the river bank and described by Jahangir as having "all sorts of fruits and grapes, and its softness is such that to put one's sandalled feet
upon it would be far from propriety or good manners. There is not a garden like it for sweetness in Kabul."
[18] Babur, Jahangir's great-grandfather and founder of the Moghul Empire, had also been enamoured of this part of Kabul and Jahangir tells us that his ancestor had erected a stone
terrace on the slope of a hill above the river "where he used to sit and drink wine. In one corner of this rock, they have excavated a round basin which could contain about two mounds of
wine.... I have also ordered them to cut out of stone another throne parallel to this and dig another basin of the same fashion on its side, and engrave my name there. Every day I sat there I
ordered them to fill both basins with wine...." Jahangir's throne has long since fallen from the hillside but it may still be seen, lying on its side, behind the Avicenna Hospital on the
right bank of the river. The wine cup and part of the inscription, including the name of Emperor Janhangir, are still visible.
[19] The consequence of Jahangir's "wine entertainment, sometime with all my intimates and courtiers and sometimes with the ladies of the harem" appear to have been very gay:
"One day in the Sahrara Garden on account of the hilarity and excitement, I ordered those who were of equal age to myself... to jump over the stream that flowed through the middle of the
garden... Most of them could not jump it, and fell on the bank or into the stream. Although I jumped it, yet now that I was 40 years of age I could not jump it with the activity that I had
shown in the presence of my revered father when I was 30."
[20] Turn left over the bridge for Babur's Garden. If you do not wish to visit the Garden, turn right and follow
Alternate Route (B), [34], to the Kabul Museum.
[21] The Pul-i-Arten Bridge spans the Kabul River where it enters the city through the Guzaragh (Place of the Pass) Pass between the Sher Darwaza (Lion's Gate) and Asmai Heights.
This bridge was designed by a German architect for King Amanullah whose emblem may be seen on its pillars.
[22] Having crossed the river, turn right and follow the tree-lined road past the Guzargah Bridge on the right and a picturesque shrine gaily painted with bold floral motifs on the left.
Take the next turn after passing the shrine and follow the dirt road up the steep hill to the gateway leading to Bagh-i-Babur Shah or
Babur's Garden.
[23] The summer pavilion of Amir Abdur Rahman stands in the garden beneath two magnificent old chinar (plane) trees so beloved by the Moghuls. Walking around the graceful pillared
veranda, one may look down upon the terraced gardens dotted with fountains. Be sure to note the workmanship of the ceilings on the veranda and in the interior. During the 19th century, most of
Kabul's fashionable homes were similarly decorated.
(Click here to view original photos from this section of "An Historical Guide to Kabul.")
[24] Opposite the entrance to the pavilion, stairs lead up the hill past the small elegant mosque, built by the Emperor Shah Jahan in 1646 to celebrate his capture at Balkh. It stood in
a deplorable state of disrepair for thirty years after it was partially dismantled preparatory to restoration. Happily, the Italian Archaeological Mission has finally restored it to its
former beauty. The work was carried out under the direction of B. C. Bono from 1964-1966. The inscription reads:
"This beautiful mosque and noble place of worship for angels and cherubim was erected in memory of the valiant King Zahir-ad-Din Muhammad Babur by the brave King Abdul Nusuffar,
Shah Jahanuddin Muhammad Babur, after the conquest of Balkh and Baddakhshan, and the pursuit and flight of Nazar Nuhammad Khan from Balkh to Subzghan, and the subsequent defeat of his army, at
an expense of 40,000 rupees, in the nineteenth year of his reign, and in the year 1056 of the Hijra (1646)."
[25] On the terrace above the mosque, we come to the tomb of the founder of the Moghul Dynasty of India, Babur Shah; a most modest structure in comparison to the elaborate edifices built by
his descendants in India. The present appearance of the Emperor's tomb is the result of extensive repairs carried out during the reign of King Nadir Shah (1929-1933). The inscribed headstone
is a copy of the original tablet set here by the Emperor Jahangir in 1607. It reads:
"Asking from whose brow shone the light of God,
It was Zahir-ad-Din Muhammad Babur Badshah.
With splendour, wealth, good fortune, justice and probity,
He commanded a force composed of the Divine and Faithful, Youthful, Graceful, Victorious and Triumphant.
He seized the world of bodies and became bright and souled,
For the conquest of the world of souls he became like the light of an eye.
When Paradise became his dwelling,
Rizwan (the doorkeeper of heaven) demanded of me a chronogram.
I replied: Paradise is forever the abode of Babur Badshah."
Another inscription above this one describes the modern repairs.
[26] On either side of the Emperor's tomb there are others belonging to members of his family. On the right is the tomb of his younger son, Mirza Hindal, who was killed in Nangrahar when
fighting there on behalf of his brother Kamran, then ruling Kabul, against their brother Humayun, subsequently Emperor at Delhi. Beside him lies Hakim Mirza, one of Humayun's sons who was
born in the Bala Hissar and died there at the age of 32 in 1585. The marble tablets at the head of these two tombs are the originals
placed here by Emperor Jahangir. The tomb to the left is of much later date, 1787, and is that of the daughter of Alamgir II, a Moghul puppet king of Delhi. The single tomb on the uppermost
terrace is that of Babur's granddaughter, the daughter of Mirza Hindal.
[27] Early 19th century accounts present us with a more elegant picture. The whole group of graves was then enclosed by a white marble screen "curiously and elegantly carved" in
the manner of those at the Taj Mahal and a "rippling stream came purling down" from the jui above, falling in "cascades over the descendents of the several terraces" by the
side of the stairway lined with stately cypress trees. Magnificent stands of chinar trees shaded reservoirs situated behind the mosque and above the tombs and a profusion of sweet smelling wild
rose, jasmine and other fragrant shrubs covered the mountainside.
[28] On leaving the gardens, note the large building to the left of the gateway. Once the Queen's elegant summer villa and then the first German Embassy, it is now a school for
tribal children.
[29] Behind these walls one may attend dog fights staged between huge fierce dogs especially trained for this purpose. They are held on Friday mornings on the hillside behind the gardens.
The road to the noon gun also runs up the hill behind these walls. This gun booms forth at twelve every day and it also announces the
beginning and end of the fast during the month of Ramazan, the month of fasting observed throughout the Islamic world. There is a motorable road up to the gun platform, but it is hazardous and
one should proceed with caution, preferably in a small car. The view is magnificent. The guns, there are two, are said to have been manufactured in the Machine Kana (see [15]) during the
reign of Amir Abdur Rahman (r. 1880-1901) when they were also used for capital punishment.
[30] On returning to the main road at the foot of the hill, you may proceed to the Kabul Museum by either of two alternate routes:
(A) via Chilsitoon Gardens, [31]; (B) via Jadi Darulaman, [34].
[31] Alternate Route (A). Turn left and continue past the Jangalak Factories established in 1961. Jangalak manufactures agricultural implements, vehicle bodies, furniture,
ceramics, and textiles. The paved road continues to the gates of Chilsitoon (Forty Pillars) Palace with its beautiful spacious gardens. Originally built by Amir Abdur Rahmin, it was
given to Prince Habibullah as a private estate. An English doctor resident in Kabul during those days describes its "appearance of a Greek temple with pillars around it" which accounts
for its name. The Durand Mission under Sir Mortimer Durand, charged with the settlement of the borders between Afghanistan and British India, were housed in this palace on their arrival in
October, 1893. One member was most impressed by his "lordly bed upholstered in gold brocade and blue satin."
[32] The present palatial building, which incorporates part of the original, was built by His Majesty King Zahir Shah and serves as the house for important state visitors. Though the
interior is not open to the public, it is possible to view the gardens and the beautiful Chahrdeh Valley from the terrace. Ask permission from the guards at the side gate.
[33] The road to Darulaman turns to the right side of the Palace and meanders through fields, past villages and poplar groves until it meets the tree-lined road to Rishkhor and Gulbagh [49].
Turn right. At the fork, turn left to the Kabul Museum buildings on the right.
Kabul Museum [42].
[34] Alternate Route (B). Turn right after descending from Babur's Garden and return to Pul-i-Arten Bridge. Cross it and
follow the road as it curves to the left, past the petrol station and on to the Abdul Wakil Khan Monument [37]. On the way, note another monument standing high above the road on your left.
This is the Minar-i-Elm-wa-Jahil, the Column to Knowledge and Ignorance, erected by King Amanullah following the rebellion
(March 1924 - January 1925) of the southern provinces around Khost. The names of those who fell are inscribed on the face of the rock below the monument, beside the rustic bridge.
[35] The inscription on the monument states that this column was erected so that coming generations may remember those who sacrificed their lives in the heroic struggle of knowledge
against reactionary ignorance. There are several interesting emblems on this theme carved onto the sides of the column. On the eastern face, for instance, there is a book, a pen and an inkpot
above crossed swords signifying the fight for education. The emblem, known as the Nishan-i-Maaref, was worn by all students in Kabul during King Amanullah's reign. The monument is set among
huge boulders beside the Kabul River.
[36] The Kabul Zoo is situated next to this minar, on the bank of the river.
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Summer Hours:
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8 a.m. - 7 p.m.
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Winter Hours:
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9 a.m. - 5 p.m.
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Admission:
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Adults 10 afs; children 5 afs.
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Camera fee:
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20 afs.
Free on Friday
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The zoo houses many of Afghanistan's animals and birds and some foreign animals are also represented, sent by the Cologne Zoo,
Kabul Zoo's sister zoo. Many of the animals live outdoors in open, natural settings. An outdoor aquarium is being constructed, and an animal
museum has recently opened where there are many varieties of birds on display. New sections devoted to mammals and insects will be added.
[37] The Minar-i-Abdul Wakil Khan stands in the center of Deh-Mazang Circle, at the stoplight in front of the zoo.
It was erected by King Nadir Shah to the memory of this Nuristani general who was killed in the Koh Daman while fighting against followers of Bacha Saqao. On the right, the houses of
Deh Mazang cling to the steep slopes of Asmai above the Kabul Traffic offices standing in front of Deh Mazang Prison. Each year new houses are added, rising further and further toward the
summit, from which spectacular views of the Chahrdeh Valley reward one for the arduous ascent.
[38] Turn left around the monument (straight ahead on Jadi Mir Wais to Kabul University, Tour III, [30],
and Paghman) onto Jadi Darulaman, a broad tree-lined avenue laid out by King Amanullah when he was building his new city during
the 1920s. During his time, trolley cars ran along its entire length from the heart of the new city to the Shah-do-Shamshira Mosque.
[39] Just after turning onto Jadi Darulaman, the ancient walls of Kabul may be seen most advantageously to your left as they descend Sher Darwaza to the Guzergah Pass. The platform on
which the noon gun stands is also clearly visible from here.
[40] On Jadi Darulaman you pass the Hajari Najari (Lapidary-Joinery) marble factory where both marble and lapis lazuli may be purchased. Further ahead, just after crossing the bridge
spanning the Chamchamast River, a tributary of the Kabul River which divides the residential sections of Karte Chahr (Section Four) and Karte Seh (Section Three), you will note a large modern
building on the left. This is Habibya College, Kabul's first high-school for boys founded by Amir Habibullah in 1903. The school moved to
these new quarters in June, 1964, having been previously located next to Timur Shah's mausoleum in the buildings now occupied by the
Aisha Durrani girl's school, Tour I, [56]. The large building of the Ministry of Commerce followed by that of the National Assembly next appear on the right; the Soviet Embassy compound on the
left; the Malaria Institute on the right and the American International School of Kabul (AISK) further down on Darulaman.
In spite of all these encroachments by ever-expanding Kabul, this valley of Chahrdeh (Four Villages) retains much of its pastoral beauty.
Picturesque walled castles, cultivated fields, poplar groves and herds of sheep and goats alternate with the city architecture, especially toward the end of the 4-mile long avenue leading to the
heart of Darulaman (city of Amanullah) which King Amanullah (r. 1919-1929) planned as his new capital city.
[41] Both Amir Abdur Rahman and Amir Habibullah thought of building a new city here, but no move was made until King Amanullah started his ambitious project. As you approach Darulaman,
you will notice an impressive castle on a hill in the middle of a luxurious park straight ahead of you. This was built by King Amanullah for the Parliament and Secretariat and was designed for
him by M. Goddard, an architect with the first DAFA mission to Afghanistan. It was, however, never used for its intended purpose. It was last occupied by the Ministry of Public Works until 1968
when a fire burned out the upper stories. It is now being restored. What its future will be is open to conjecture.
[42] Turn right at the fork to the Kabul Museum, on your right.
Summer Hours:
8-12 a.m.
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21 March - 23 September
1:30 - 4:30 p.m.
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Thursday and Friday:
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8 a.m. - 12 p.m.
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Winter Hours:
9-12 a.m.
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24 September - 20 March
1:30 - 3:30 p.m.
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Thursday and Friday:
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9 a.m. - 1 p.m.
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Ramazan:
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8 a.m. - 1 p.m.
Saturday through Thursday
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Admission:
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5 afs; free on Friday
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A Museum Guide is available. The museum is not heated and visitors are urged to dress warmly during the winter.
[43] Amir Habibullah was interested in the rare and unusual items acquired by the royal family and several western residents in Kabul during his time tell with interest of visiting
storerooms he had especially set aside for his collection. His brother, Prince Nasrullah, was a discriminating collector of fine manuscripts.
[44] When King Amanullah came to power, he placed both these collections in the Bagh-i-Bala for a short time, but subsequently
brought them back into the city. The rare objects were then placed in the Baghcha (Little Garden) Palace within the Arg grounds.
After 1922 when a contract was signed with the Delegation Archéologique Française en Afghanistan (DAFA), this collection was augmented by the addition of examples from Afghanistan's early
cultures. The manuscript collection was, however, placed in the lower rooms of Amir Abdur Rahman's Mausoleum where it was
known as the Kitab Khana-i-Milli (National Library) which was open to the public. During the troubled times of Bacha Saqao in 1929, many of the fine manuscripts disappeared. After peace was
restored, therefore, King Nadir Shah moved both collections to the safety of the present museum building which Amir Amanullah had intended to be the Municipality Building for the new capital.
[45] A reorganization programme was initiated in 1957, and in 1958 with the assistance of UNESCO. Under this programme both the Begram Room and the Islamic Arts Room were reorganized
according to modern museum techniques.
[46] A Guide to the Kabul Museum describes the collection, so it is only necessary here to urge the hurried visitor not to miss the exciting Begram Collection from the Kushan capital at
Kapisa. The ivories and painted Roman glass are unique. The Museum also has beautifully preserved frescoes from the Bamiyan Valley, Buddhist art from various sites in Afghanistan, an
excellent collection of coins, interesting Islamic objects from Ghazni and Kabul, an extremely fascinating ethnographic collection, and a collection of early Afghan arms. The exquisite
manuscript collection has been moved to the fifth floor of the Ministry of Information and Culture. (above, [12]).
[47] Large ornate villas surrounded by lush gardens were built by members of aristocracy in the area behind the museum building. The building directly behind the museum was the home of
King Amanullah's Foreign Minister, Mahmud Beg Tarzi, father of the Queen, Souriya and editor of the famed newspaper Seraj-ul-Akhbar. It is now the Lycee Mahmud Tarzi. The large grey
and white building to the left of the Lycee, now the Afghan Institute of Archaeology, was once the home of King Amanullah's sister. It was restored in 1959.
[48] From the Museum, follow the paved road around the gardens, past the trolley cars still standing before their little station. Just beyond the trolley station, you may be able to
catch a glimpse of a lovely palace up on the hillside. This is Tepe Taj Beg which was to have been King Amanullah's new palace, but he never saw it completed. The interior was richly decorated
with beautiful Afghan marbles inlaid with lapis lazuli. On their European tour, the royal couple purchased exquisite furnishings for this palace, some of which remain in storerooms today. The
exterior is tastefully decorated with the personal emblems of the King of Afghanistan. Used as a hospital by the Ministry of Public Works until April, 1964, it is now the headquarters of the
Kabul Central Forces. No visitors allowed.
[49] Follow the paved road which winds to the left. If you have time and are interested in a short but very lovely introduction to the Afghan countryside, you may turn right to
Rishkhor and Gulbagh. The road is unpaved; dusty in summer, muddy in spring. About three miles and 15 minutes from Darulaman, you come to a bridge in the area of the village of
Rishkhor. Cross the bridge and turn right. This will bring you to the public gardens of Gulbagh where you may picnic in perfectly delightful surroundings on the banks of the river. Turning
left on the bridge, one may proceed for another mile before coming to a military area where entrance is forbidden. On a hilltop of the right you may, however, see a large palace built by the
late Sarder Shah Mahmud Ghazi. The beautiful gardens and orchards which surround the palace were laid out by the Sardar and to it, he brought seeds and saplings gathered on his expansive
travels throughout the world: These gardens are amongst the loveliest in Kabul.
[50] To return to Kabul without visiting Rishkhor, continue left and proceed to the two pillars marking the entrance to Jadi Darulaman. Those who have taken Alternate Route (A), see
41-45. Return to Deh Mazang Circle, turn right, and continue past the petrol station to Pul-i-Arten. Cross it and turn left.
On your right is Avicenna Hospital named for the famous 11th century philosopher and physician Abu Ali al-Husain Ibn Abdullah Ibn Sena. You next pass the Chandawal Section, site of a
Qizilbash garrison of Nadir Shah's time (r. 1738-1747). In the early 19th Century, it was still inhabited by the Qizilbash and was a separate fortified suburb just outside the limits of the
city of Kabul. Today its inhabitants are still predominately Shia and the name Chandawal, meaning rear-guard, links the present with the past.
[51] At the stop light at the end of Jadi Maiwand you may follow either of two routes: (A) straight ahead on Jadi Maiwand takes you to the
Maiwand Monument, left across Pul-i-Khisti to
Pushtunistan Square [52]; (B) left along the side of the river past
Timur Shah's mausoleum to Pul-i-Shahi [54].
[52] Route (A) takes you past the large Ladies' Hospital, the Shefa Khana Masturat, on your left; the first street on your right leads to the Buria Bazaar where all manner of
baskets and matting may be purchased and one of the city's busiest and most colorful second-hand bazaars specializing in yarn goods and shoes. Further ahead, a wide paved street on the left
leads to the Mandawi Bazaar, the wholesale grain market, where rice, lentils, eggs, etc. may be purchased. Numerous textile shops and several photographic shops line this section of Jadi
Maiwand and as you approach the monument you will note several shops hung with garlands of paper flowers on your right. These delicate
paper decorations are used for engagement and wedding festivities. Cars festooned with them may often be seen on the streets of Kabul, carrying the bride and groom to the wedding ceremony. A
small side-street beside these shops leads to the Kitab Firoshi (Book Market) and to Khwaja Safa, Tour V. [10] In the side-street across the
avenue from the paper flower shops, you will find many shops offering gilim (woven rugs) for sale. Gilim designs are bright and bold, a specialty of the Hazara from Central
Afghanistan and the Uzbak from Northern Afghanistan.
[53] Turn left around the monument commemorating the Afghan victory over British forces at Maiwand near Qandahar on 27 July, 1880, onto Nadir Pushtun Wat which takes you past the
historic Chahr Chatta Bazaar, the Pul-i-Khishti Mosque and a bridge called Pul-i-Khisti to
Pushtunistan Square, a route described in Tour II.
[54] For Route B turn left at the stop light and continue down the right bank of the river on Timur Shah Wat past a long line of shops selling karakul skins for which
Afghanistan is justly famous. (one way traffic).
[55] The Mausoleum of Timur Shah (d. 1793) stands in a garden at the end of this line of shops. The mausoleum is a massive
octagonal structure built in the style of the early Moghul and Afghan kings of Delhi. The exterior of the base is ornamented with deeply recessed arched niches and with small cupolas on each of
the eight corners. Above this, there is a drum ornamented with shallow niches and a second drum topped by a dome. Unfortunately, modifications currently in progress have destroyed the design of
the exterior and bar visitors from the large open chamber which contains a plain undecorated sarcophagus. The actual tomb lies in the subterranean vaults which are now locked. Beside it there
are two other tombs, one of which is reputed to be that of the ill-fated Shah Shujah, son of Timur Shah, who was murdered outside the
Bala Hissar in April, 1842.
[56] Proceed past the Aisha Durrani School to the Pul-i-Shahi (Kings Bridge). You follow one of the following three alternate routes.
[57] (i) Turn left over Pul-i-Shahi and return to Pushtunistan Square.
[58] (ii) Continue straight down the right bank of the river, passing the Central Post Office and several jewelry shops where lapis lazuli may be purchased, to
Pul-i-Khishti. The moneychanger's serai, Shahzada Serai, is located about half-way down this street popularly called Lab-i-Darya or
River's Bank, across from a new footbridge completed in 1970. At the foot of this street is Pul-i-Khishti Mosque on your right, and the
Pul-i-Khisti bridge on the left. Cross this bridge and continue straight ahead to Pushtunistan Square.
[59] (iii) Turn right into Bagh-i-Umoni (Public Gardens). Less than fifty years ago the whole area by the river from Chandawl to the
Arg Palace was laid out in spacious gardens and this bustling busy street retains the name of one of them. The Ministry of Press
Bookstore which carries English language periodicals and books is on the left at the beginning of this street lined with small shops selling all manners of textiles, shoes, ladies' wear, and
sundries. At the end, there are several colourful serais, two-storied buildings around a central courtyard, where one may purchase such items as embroidery cotton, ribbons, chiffon scarves and
other sundries. The street here is very crowded but you may, if you wish turn to the left passing many shops selling dried fruits for which Afghanistan has been famous for centuries. This will
bring you back to the road by the river, turn right to Pul-i-Khisti, left over the bridge and return to Pushtunistan Square. If you do
not wish to drive through this short but crowded street, return to Pul-i-Shahi and take route (A) or (B).
