Tour III - Shahr-i-Nau to the Kabul University via Bagh-i-Bala
Of Special Interest
- Foreign Ministry [1]
- Masjid-i-Sherpur [5]
- Kolola Pushta [6]
- Bagh-i-Bala [16]
- Kabul University [30]
Minimum time for complete tour: 1.5 hours
[1] From Pushtunistan Square proceed in a northwesterly direction on Ibn Sena Wat past
Amir Abdur Rahman's Mausoleum, to the second traffic light, at Ghazi Square. Turn right onto Shah Mahmud-Ghazi Wat (left and
straight ahead, Tour I [10], passing the Foreign Ministry grounds on the right. The red building with its
interesting architecture was built during the reign of Amir Habibullah (r. 1901-1919) when it was known as the Kasre-estar or Star Palace. It housed the Foreign Ministry until 1965 when
the offices were transferred to the handsome gray marble standing nearby.
[2] The Prime Ministry and Ministry of Justice are located across the street from the Foreign Ministry. Next to the Ministry of Justice, a short street leads directly to one of Kabul's
more interesting shopping centers at Chahrah-i-Taurabaz Khan (antiquities, rugs, embroideries, curios, books, tinned goods, fresh fruits and vegetables, etc). Leaving this shopping spree aside
for the moment, continue straight on to pass the palatial home of the late Sardar Mahmud-Ghazi now partially demolished, on the left, and the large compound of the United Nations on the
right. The Turkish Embassy is located across the street from the United Nations in a beautiful tree-filled garden, once the home of Prince Amanullah before he became king in 1919. The old palace
was demolished in 1959 to make way for a new embassy.
[3] Turn left at the traffic light. The Pashto Academy is located on the northwest corner of this crossroad. The Academy was established for the furtherance of Pashto language and
culture and it puts out such publications as encyclopedias and dictionaries in Pashto. Passing through the next traffic light, note a series of low buildings with colourful facades on the left.
This is the Mother and Child Care Center which was established with a grant-in-aid from the Soviet Union and inaugurated in April, 1970. The Center includes a kindergarten for 200 children where
all miniature furniture is gaily painted; a baby care center and a mother care clinic. Headquarters of the Afghan Women's Institute are located just beyond, next to the Zaineb Cinema.
[4] You are now passing along the dividing line between two of Kabul's more elite residential sections: Sherpur on the right and Shahr-i-Nau (New City) on the left.
Shahr-i-Nau Park begins a block beyond the Zaineb Cinema, on the left, where you will find a recreation center, playgrounds,
tennis courts, refreshment stands and a book kiosk in addition to the Park Cinema which shows films in various foreign languages.
There are many restaurants specializing in kabab, (skewered morsels of lamb, which are broiled over charcoal braziers outside each restaurant, scenting the air with savory odors hard to
resist.)
[5] The charming little mosque standing right at the next traffic light gives the square two popular names, completely eclipsing its official name of Shahabuddin Sam Ghori Square,
honoring a 12th century Ghorid king ruling from Ghazni. Most Kabulis refer to the square as Chahrahi (Crossroads of) Haji Yaqub and the mosque as Masjid-i-Haji Yaqub although the
municipality dubbed it the Sherpur Mosque when they built it for the city in 1957. Who Haji Yaqub was, is not entirely clear
except for the fact that he was a highly respected person who made his home in the area. The blue tiles used in decorating the facade were made in the workshops of the famous mosque of
Herat. Their glistening color has led foreigners to call it the Blue Mosque. Condolence services for prominent Afghans are often held here.
[6] The Fort of Kolola Pushta (Round Hill) stands high on a hill at the far-end of this street, directly ahead at the
stoplight. On the 14th of December, 1928, Bacha Saqao, the Son-of-a-Water-Carrier from the Koh Daman who was to become king, advanced on Kabul with approximately 1000 men. Successfully
capturing the fort on Kolola Pushta, which was fully stocked with arms and ammunition, they bombarded the city until it fell to them on the 19th of January, 1929. The fort is still
garrisoned. No visitors.
[7] Bacha Saqao did not take Kabul without occasional reversals, however, even though the early capture of
Kolola Pushta was an important key to his success. One popular story, for instance, tells us that the royal forces once trapped
Bacha Saqao in the tall tower of Habibya College which is now called Burj-i-Shahrara or the Red Tower (see map). The tower was then a full storey taller than it is today and the rebel
leader was at its topmost corner, so his guards relaxed, believing escape impossible. One of Saqao's lieutenants, however, managed to lead a horse up to the foot of the tower and the
athletic commander jumped down onto its back and galloped off to return another day to reduce the school to the pile of rubble it is today. The building had been built by Abdur Rahman
(r. 1880-1901) on the very spot where he met with British Officers as they departed Kabul in 1880, leaving the city in his care. Both Amir Abdur Rahman and his son Amir Habibullah
(r. 1901-1919) entertained their foreign guests in this palace for it was one of the city's most attractive buildings, but King Amanullah (r. 1919-1929) turned it over to Habibya, a boy's high
school Tour I, 40. There is an inscription on the tower giving its full history which was put up by order of
King Amanullah.
[8] The Christian Cemetery or Kabre Ghora (ghora being a popular 19th century term for British soldier) which was
established by the British during the Second Anglo-Afghan War (1878-1880) is located at the northeastern end (to right at mosque) of Shahabuddin Wat (open 9-11, except Friday). An inscribed
pillar of black stone about half-way down this street commemorates some Afghan warriors (shaheed) who fell in 1879
while fighting against the British in this area. The pillar was put up in 1912.
[9] Only a few fragments of the early British tombstones remain and these have been embedded on one wall of the cemetery. Sir Aurel Stein, the renowned explorer-archaeologist, rests
here. Having spent a lifetime in pioneer work tracing the passage of Buddhism from India to China through Central Asia, he died in Kabul in 1943 at the age of 82. Sir Aurel had spent 40
years trying to get permission to visit Kabul which makes his death a few days after his arrival all the more tragic. He caught a chill just after arriving.
[10] Turn left at the Sherpur Mosque and continue straight ahead on Shahabuddin Wat to Ansari Square at the next stoplight.
Along these few blocks, the discriminating shopper will find many fascinating buys, from rugs and antiques to sophisticated boutique items straight from Europe. Florists display flowers flown
in from Europe and several well-known Afghan artists have their studios here. Those interested in contemporary Afghan art will find a visit to the Afghan Art Gallery most rewarding.
Inaugurated in February, 1971, it is located on the first floor, above Marks and Sparks, just to the left of the stoplight at Chahrahi Ansari or Ansari Square. Kabul's first legitimate
theater, the Kawbab, opened in May, 1971, is located in a building next door.
[11] Proceed straight ahead through Ansari Square and veer right at the next traffic light. Sharp Right at traffic light to Burj-i-Shahrara, see above [7].
A new hospital is located in a garden on the left. This street is called Shahrara Wat recalling the Moghul gardens described by the Emperor Jahangir and discussed in
Tour I, [17]. Today, however, the name refers specifically to a densely populated village-suburb of Kabul which lies hidden on the
left behind a low line of nondescript houses and serais. There are a great number of motor-serais and workshops along this stretch and a very colorful fruit bazaar standing just outside the
wholesale fruit serai. The large Huq Murad rug serai is located on the other side of the fruit bazaar. It is hoped that present plans to establish a rug museum in this serai will materialize
in the very near future.
(Click here to view original photos from this section of "An Historical Guide to Kabul.")
[12] At the bend in the road beyond the rug serai, beautiful trees poke their heads above high walls on the right. This is the Ladies' Garden of Shahrara, a favorite picnic ground for
the ladies of Kabul who gather here in great numbers on Fridays and holidays. No gentlemen allowed.
[13] The Salang Highway, which begins at Zarnegar Park by the side of the Ministry of Education, Tour I, [11],
passes along the side wall of the Shahrara Garden. This section of the highway will run through to the Khair Khana Pass but it is currently under construction and impassable. Another new road
under construction in this area will pass over a low saddle in the Asmai Heights on the left. This will be a great boon for the city since present routes around either end of Asmai are long
and congested. This new road starts from the Salang Highway and will drop down into Aliabad in the vicinity of Kabul University, [30].
[14] Shahrara Wat changes its name officially to Mir Bacha Khan Ghazi Wat at the Shahrara Garden, but, as in most parts of Kabul, the official name is largely ignored and even unknown
to many. Most people speak of this as Sarak-i-Parwan, or Parwan Street, because it leads to Karte Parwan, one of the city's fastest growing residential sections. Mir Bacha Khan is fittingly
associated with this area, however, for he was a patriotic chief from Kohistan who fought against the British in 1879. At dawn on the 14th of December that year, for instance, the British General
Roberts saw that vast numbers of riders were converging on Asmai Heights from Chahrdeh, Tour I, [32] and the Koh
Daman, with their battle standards held high. He dispatched a contingent of British troops to seize the Conical Hill in the center of Asmai and from this position, they succeeded at first in
capturing the Afghan position on the high peak above, but by afternoon the situation changed drastically. Slowly, step by step, the British were forced to withdraw to the Conical Hill and then
down its side to the plain below. "From that moment," says General Roberts in his autobiography, "I realized what is hard for a British soldier, how much harder for a British
commander, to realize, that we were over-matched, and that we could not hold our ground." He then gave the order for all troops to retire behind the walls of the Sherpur Cantonments,
Tour IV, [8] where they were besieged for nine days.
[15] To the right at the next traffic light, note the large building of Naderia Lycee, a high school named after the late King Nadir Shah (r. 1929-1933), father of His Majesty King
Zahir Shah, which was inaugurated in 1961.
[16] Take left fork (right to British Embassy, Koh Daman, Istalif,
Charikar, Salang). Here the road climbs a fairly steep slope and half-way up the rise note
Bagh-i-Bala Palace atop a lush vine-covered hill to the right. To visit the palace turn right at top of rise, being careful to
take the lower of two turnoffs. The upper road goes to Kabul Intercontinental Hotel, opened 9 September, 1969. If you do not wish to
visit the palace, continue tour from [25].
[17] Bagh-i-Bala figures extensively in the story of Kabul. It is said that there were Moghul gardens here, laid out by
one of Emperor Jahangir's queens, and that during the early years of the 19th century it was favoured by Kabul's aristocracy. Starting from
Babur's Gardens, they would ride on an afternoon through the Gardens of Chahrdeh to this hill where they would stop to drink a cup of
wine while admiring the glorious view. They would then return to the city by way of the Chaman-i-Wazirabad [23].
[18] Then, in August, 1939 when Shah Shujah returned to this city accompanied by the British Army of the Indus, he camped at
Bagh-i-Bala before formally entering the city. We can imagine this encampment, the infantry in black shakos above scarlet coats with
white cross belts, and the Horse Artillery even more dashingly attired in brass dragoon helmets with leopard-skin rolls, white buckskin breeches and high black jack boots. With these uniforms,
the troops imparted a colourful variety to the sober hues of their surroundings.
[19] Colour really sparkled and dazzled under a bright sun at 3:00 the next afternoon when the Shah officially entered the city; "The King rode a handsome white Caboolee charger,
decorated with equipments mounted with gold, in the Asiatic fashion. He wore the jewelled coronet of velvet in which he always appears in public, his costume ornamented on the arms and
breast with a profusion of precious stones, whilst his waist was encircled with a broad and cumbrous girdle of gold, in which glittered rubies and emeralds not a few. The Shah was
accompanied by the Commander-in-Chief, by the Envoy and Minister, and Sir Alexander Burnes, the two latter in full diplomatic costume. This dress consists of a cocked hat fringed with
ostrich feathers, a blue frock coat with raised buttons, richly embroidered on the collar and cuffs, epaulettes not yielding in splendour to those of a field-marshal, and trowsers edged with
very broad gold lace."
[20] Accounts of this episode present a problem not infrequently met with in research on this period. The above description is given by the ADC to General Cotton who was part of the
parade. Another participant, however, says that "His Majesty was borne on an elephant, the howdah of which was of solid silver, and the caparisons crimson with gold." Whichever,
both speak of the splendor in which Shah Shujah rode from Bagh-i-Bala to the
Bala Hissar from which he had been exiled for thirty years. The people of Kabul turned out for the pageant, but their welcome to the
puppet king was far from enthusiastic: they were all but silent.
[21] Again, when Amir Abdur Rahman (r. 1880-1901) returned from an extended campaign in the north, he was welcomed back to the city on this rise where a temporary pavilion "gaily
adorned with hangings of crimson and white and with large bouquets of flowers" had been erected for his reception. Greatly taken with the beauty of the spot, the Amir determined to
build a palace a little higher up the mountainside even though his advisers pointed out that this would disturb the final resting place of the Pir-i-Baland (High Saint). Work on the
foundations continued for some weeks, only to be abruptly discontinued one morning. The court was amazed, and not a little disturbed, but none dared at first to risk the monarch's wrath by
inquiring into the matter. Curiosity ran high, however, and finally one brave soul approached and questioned the Amir who readily admitted that the Pir-i-Baland had appeared to him in a
dream and smartly slapped his face. The sting of this chastisement still tingled when the Amir awoke convincing him that he would be well advised to choose another site for his palace. Flags
fly above the tomb of Pir-i-Baland on a peak next to the hotel though they are barely visible now that the tomb has been enclosed within high stone walls. Thursday afternoon and Friday are
popular visiting days for this shrine.
[22] The Amir built a pleasure palace in romantic design with splashing fountains on its terraces and a large reflecting pool. This was his favorite retreat and he died here in 1901.
Later on, the palace became a museum and then it was used as a military hospital for some time before being totally abandoned. By the early 1960s, it had fallen into ruin, most of the dome was
caved in and the fallen stucco decoration lay crumbling on the floor. Serious plans to pull it down altogether were fortunately replaced by others with a sense of history, however, and the
palace was handsomely restored in 1964 and furnished with many original pieces. The stucco and mirror-studded decoration of the interior faithfully represents the original; the beautiful
rugs and chandeliers presented by His Majesty add the perfect touch of elegance. It is now Kabul's most attractive restaurant and many private and official receptions are held here. Moreover,
many marriage ceremonies are performed under the glittering dome of Bagh-i-Bala in fitting continuation of its romantic tradition.
[23] From the front terrace of the palace, one looks down toward the left upon the open spaces of the Chaman-i-Wazirabad (Meadows of Wazirabad) ringed by several mountain
ranges. During the winter and spring, these meadows are flooded to form a large lake which attracts flocks of migratory birds much to the delight of numerous hunters. Every year the city
encroaches on the Chaman from all directions, however. The twin forts of Kolola Pushta, above [6], and
Shahrara on low hills in front of the palace, stand guard over the trees and gardens of Sherpur and Shahr-i-Nau, and the long hill of Sia Sang rises beyond, supporting the blue-domed
mausoleum of King Nadir Shah (r. 1929-1933) on its southern corner. The mud-roofed village-suburb of Shahrara blends into the southern slope below the Shahrara Fort shielded from the modern
residential section of Karte Parwan by the trees of the Ladies' Garden of Shahrara, and the palatial residence of the British Ambassador gleams whitely in the middle of extensive gardens
filling the British Embassy compound.
[24] Another of Kabul's fast-growing suburbs, Afshar-i-Nananchi, lies directly at the foot of this hill. Nadir Shah Afshar, the Persian conqueror of Afghanistan and India, built a
large garrison at this important approach to the city in 1738. The Fort no longer stands, but many families in the area trace their descent from those Qizilbash troops stationed here over
two hundred years ago, and some still speak a distinct Turkoman dialect among themselves.
[25] Return to the main road. Turn right and proceed downhill to next junction. On your right, note the extensive grounds and attractive modern buildings of Polytechnic Institute,
a part of Kabul University, which opened in 1968. This Institute is assisted by the USSR and trains engineers in construction, geology, mining and petroleum.
[26] Turn left at junction. Straight ahead to Kargha Lake and
Paghman.
[27] On your left is a tall Silo standing next to a modern bakery opened in 1955, with a second silo opened in 1964 beside it. The
open fields and meadows on the right, which stretch as far as the foot of Paghman mountains, are destined to become the city's newest and
largest (35 square kilometers) residential area called Khushhal Khan Mina. The name celebrates the famous 17th century warrior-poet from the Khatak tribe living in the vicinity of
Attock Fort on the Indus River. He lived his life in fierce opposition to the Moghul Emperor Aurangzeb, and his Pashto poems sing with passion of Afghan pride and honor.
"In Emperor Aurangzeb's reign
You see a rosary in every hand;
But God alone knoweth best
If 'tis virtue or hypocrisy."
(trans. K. Mohmand)
[28] Continue to petrol station at Koti Sangi (or Maidan-i-Mir Wais as it has more recently been named.) Turn left around the petrol station. Right to
Paghman, Ghazni.
[29] You are now on Jadi Mir Wais, a broad avenue named for an early 18th century mayor of Qandahar who led the tribes against the Safavids ruling from Persia. The successful revolt
took place in April, 1709, and Mir Wais ruled at Qandahar until his death in 1715. His son led a conquering Afghan army to take the Safavid throne at Isfahan and the Afghans ruled Persia until
1730 when they were unseated by Nadir Shah Afshar who came to take the Afghan area in 1738. All these maneuvers were a prelude to the establishment of an Afghan Empire by Ahmad Shah Durrani of
Qandahar in 1747 after Nadir Shah Afshar was assassinated in the same year. Mir Wais may be credited, however, with imbuing the tribes with a sense of national destiny for the first time.
[30] Continue down Jadi Mir Wais, passing Deh Bori circle, to next intersection on the left which is the entrance to Kabul University.
[31] Turn left. On your right, you will note a tall monument of slender black-marble columns which is the Makbara-i-Jamaluddin Afghani or Tomb of Jamaluddin Afghani. Philosopher,
writer, orator and journalist, this remarkable man entered the service of Amir Dost Mohammad as tutor to the heir designate, Sher Ali Khan. The fratricidal disputes following Amir Dost
Mohammad's death in 1863, however, so frustrated Jamaluddin's desires for reform and modernization, that he left Afghanistan late in 1868 to begin a life of extensive travel, much of it
occasioned by exile, through India, Iran, Egypt, Turkey, England, France and Russia. As he travelled, he wrote and lectured on the need for a Muslim revival encompassing the unification of all
Muslim states into a single Caliphate. His ideas often brought him into conflict with the establishment, especially when it was foreign dominated, but from them burgeoned the nationalist
movements which have shaped the destiny of so many countries in which he resided. He died in Constantinople in 1897 where he was buried until December, 1944 when his remains were carried to
Kabul and placed here on 2 January, 1945. For all that has been written by and of Jamaluddin Afghani, considerable controversy rages over the place of his birth. The Afghan tradition claims that
he was born in the Kunar Valley in 1838.
[32] The monument to Jamaluddin Afghani was completed in 1968 and on 15 June, 1970, His Majesty Malik Faisal, King of Saudi Arabia, laid the foundation stone of an Islamic Research
Center which will be built with this monument at its heart.
[33] Continue to a tree-filled island in the center of campus which is a favorite meeting place for students. Enrollment in 1971 was about 5000. The central administration building, which
also includes the Faculty of Letters, is on the right; several buildings belonging to the Faculty of Medicine stand to the left and just before the Administration Building. The College of
Medicine was the first college of the university to be founded by King Nadir Shah in 1932. Subsequent faculties scattered throughout the city were later joined to form Kabul University in 1942.
There was no central campus, however, until all the faculties moved to this campus in 1964.
[34] Passing the tree-filled island, turn left around a monument commemorating the establishment of the College of Medicine by Nadir Shah, and drive to the end of this shady street noting
the gymnasium and the dormitory which houses 1100 students, both of which stand to the left. Make a U-turn where the avenue of trees end, and return to the College of Medicine monument noting
the various buildings belonging to Aliabad Hospital, also established by King Nadir Shah, on the hillside to the left above the monument.
[35] Continue straight ahead past the Administration building, the Library, the Faculty of Agriculture and the Faculty of Engineering. All these buildings were built in 1964 with
assistance from the USA.
[36] As you approach the end of the road, note the Ministry of Agriculture on your left. The blue-domed Ziarat-i-Sakhi on the hillside straight ahead will also attract your
attention. This is an extremely important shrine in Kabul, especially for the Shia community, for the Holy Cloak of the Prophet rested in a natural basin on top of a large stone now
enshrined here. The Cloak had been obtained in 1768 from the Amir of Bokhara by Ahmad Shah Durrani (r. 1747-1772) as part of a treaty settling the northern boundaries. It is now enshrined in
Qandahar, Ahmad Shah's capital, but while it was kept in Kabul for a few days during the journey, it is said that Hazrat Ali, cousin and son-in-law of the Prophet Mohammad, came to pay his
respects to the holy relic. For this reason, the shrine is sometimes referred to as Qadamgah Hazrat-i-Shah or the Place Where Hazrat Ali Placed His Foot, i.e., visited. Sakhi (Generous One) is
another title of Hazrat Ali. Because of these associations with Hazrat Ali the whole university area is generally referred to as Aliabad.
[37] Each year on Nauroz, or New Year's Day (21 March), a large fair is held on the Ziarat-i-Sakhi and thousands gather in festive new clothing to visit the shrine and picnic on the
hillside. The Janda, or Sacred Flag, is raised in front of the shrine with great ceremony on the first day. It flies for forty days and is then returned to the shrine until the next Nauroz.
After the solemnity of the opening ceremonies, the hillside echoes with the voices of countless hawkers calling out the merits of their wares and the delighted screams of the little ones
spinning around on carousels and merry-go-rounds, and the air is perfumed with the scent of all manner of food specialties being cooked on the spot. Visitors welcome.
[38] The high peak on the Asmai Heights above the shrine is called Tapa Salaam, the Hill of Greeting, for it has long been a tradition for travellers to bow in greeting to the
Ziarat-i-Sakhi on crossing over the pass. The practice no doubt dates from pre-Islamic times, for the hillside beside the shrine is strewn with Buddhist remains dating from the early centuries
A.D. which are, however, now covered for the most part by modern Muslim graves. A new road currently under construction will cross over Asmai via the pass at Tapa Salaam.
[39] Take the first road to right and return to Jadi Mir Wais. Turn left to pass by the Afghan Institute of Technology (A.I.T.) and Ghazi High School on your left. This will bring you
to the stoplight at Deh-Mazang Circle where the Minar-i-Abdul Wakil Khan stands. Here you may: turn right to visit the
Kabul Museum, Tour I, [42]; proceed straight ahead and right after the bridge, to visit
Babur's Tomb, Tour I, [20]; proceed straight ahead and left after the bridge, to return to center
of town.
