The Salang Pass and Khinjan
Salang: half-day tour; 122 km; 76 mi; 2 hrs. to tunnel. Full day if combined with Istalif.
To Istalif: 55 km; 34 mi; 1 hr. 13 km; 8.5 unpaved.
Khinjan: full day tour; 162 km; 100 mi; 3 hrs., Hotel
Tolls: round trip to Salang, 90 afs.; to Khinjan, 140 afs.
Petrol: en route at Charikar and Khinjan
Refreshments: teahouses and kabab at Charikar and en route as noted; Khinjan Hotel - telephone in advance.
[1] The Salang Pass lies in the heart of the Hindu Kush mountains. Through it, one passes from the Kabul and Koh Daman valleys
into the northern foothills which lead onto the Turkestan Plains. This trip presents some of the world's most thrilling and spectacular scenery.
[2] For items of interest during the first 41 km. (25.5 mi.) of this tour, see Istalif, passing the turnoff to Istalif. Note at:
Marker 44/45: Town of Qara Bagh (Black Garden), a large provincial center with stalls piled high with fruits in season by the roadside. Qara Bagh is in the center of this grape
producing area and in its vicinity, you will notice many houses with slotted walls. These are actually raisin houses. The slotted walls allow air to circulate around bunches of grapes draped
over long poles turning the grapes into white raisins. Red raisins are produced by drying grapes in the sun.
[3] Marker 48/49. Toll Gate: 20 afs; keep ticket and surrender it at next tollgate at Jabal Seraj. At this tollgate, note a low hill far to the right which has a broad white stripe
down its side. This is the Reg Rawan or Moving Sands, celebrated in legend. It is said that the Imam Hannifa Ghazni has lived inside the hill for the past one thousand years and that
one day he will emerge to bring peace to the world. The Imam sits on a golden throne encrusted with jewels and he presides over an opulent court, guarded by finely dressed courtiers on
high-stepping horses jingling with dazzling caparisons. Drums beat and cymbals ring when he mounts his throne and rumbling echoes of the chorus may at times be heard by those passing by.
The site of the ancient Kushan capital of Paisa (Begram) is located in the area, just in front of the Reg Rawan at the confluence of the Ghorband and Panjsher Rivers (see
Gulbahar and Kapisa for discussion.)
[4] Marker 46: Buddhist stupa of Tope Darra may be seen to the left, standing at the top of a draw above a clump of trees. Part of a monastery complex, it dates from the Kushan
period during the early centuries A.D. There are many Buddhist sites scattered throughout the Koh Daman and along the old caravan highway from India to Central Asia, for Buddhism was carried
from its homeland in India to the Far East along this route through Afghanistan. Many of the local princes of that time became Buddhists and thousands of pilgrims from Central Asia and China
passed through on their way to visit the holy sites of the Buddha (See Guldara, Bamiyan Guide, and Guide to Afghanistan for more detailed discussion.)
[5] Marker 64. 1 hour from Kabul: Charikar, capital of Parwan Province, is a large town noted for the manufacture of knives and scissors. Many silver shops. A sign at the
entrance to the first road on the left after entering the town directs one to Gulgdundai (Flower Hill) where the Arghawan Festival is held each year in mid-April when the Arghawan
(Judas Tree) blooms. Thousands come from Kabul to picnic and enjoy the glorious blossoms which seem to impart a purply-red glow to the entire hillside. No special ceremonies.
[6] Leaving Charikar, one passes by the Parwan Irrigation Project, a joint Afghanistan-People's Republic of China project. A new bridge crosses the Ghorband river just beyond. A new
connecting road with the road to Bamiyan cuts to the left at the end of the bridge so as to by-pass the construction of a large canal for the irrigation project.
[7] Marker 77: The little town of Jabal Seraj is built around Afghanistan's first hydroelectric station which was installed during the reign of Amir Habibullah (r. 1901-1919)
by the American engineer, A.C. Jewett. There is also a large textile mill and a cement plant at Jabal Seraj. Sharp right to Gulbahar, below. Toll:
surrender ticket.
[8] The road enters the mountains at Jabal Seraj and climbs by the side of the Salang River past numerous villages clinging to the mountainside, set off from the craggy cliffs by groves
of mulberries or an occasional cherry, apricot or almond tree growing in their vicinity. Here and there, the river has been dammed by the villagers to form quiet pools attractively bordered with
willows where rustic duck decoys float during the spring and fall hunting seasons. Ordinary, un-sculptured, pieces of wood into which crooked branches are fitted to simulate the neck and head,
these decoys are most realistic and very deceiving.
[9] Marker 99: Toll: 50 afs. If you are only going as far as the tunnel, keep this ticket handy and surrender it in lieu of payment as this same tollgate on your way back.
[10] Marker 118, 1 hour from Jabal Seraj: Entrance to final gallery leading into the Salang Tunnel. Altitude: 3363m;
11,100 ft; length 2675 m; 8775 ft or 2.7 km; 1.7 mi. An additional 4972 m; 16,313 ft. of galleries have been constructed to keep the approaches free of snow. The tunnel was built by the
Institute of Techno Export (USSR) and the Afghan Ministry of Public Works and opened in December, 1964. Work began in August, 1958.
[11] The road descends very rapidly after the tunnel and the scenery is subtly different, for here the rugged slopes are sprinkled with Asian conifer and no villages appear until one
nears the bottom of the slope where the Khinjan River flows with gathering force past numerous mulberry groves. There are several teahouses along the route which serve meals as well as tea
such as: korma, Pilao, kabab, nan, etc.
[12] Marker 159: Toll: surrender ticket.
[13] Marker 162, 1 hour from Salang Tunnel; Khinjan is a tiny bazaar with a petrol pump and a large hotel which was
originally built for the use of technicians paving the road and building the tunnel. Swimming pool. Excellent trout fishing in Khinjan River and in the upper reaches of the Anderab River
which passes by Khinjan. Best seasons: June and late-September - early-October. Arrangements may be made through the Afghan Tourist Organization, Kabul.
More photos of Salang:
