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Last Friday, good friend Kabir suggested a picnic in the Salang so off we went. The road heading out of Kabul is now a four lane divided highway that eventually narrows down to two. Except for several rough spots early on and an unfinished bridge, it's as good or better than many country roads in the USA. I'm sure Dr. Marc will be pleased to learn that it's not wafer thin and is being put to good use by one hell of a lot of people. For me, it's strange to see so many gas stations and truck stops on a road in Afghanistan. No Waffle Huts or Golden Arches yet, but who knows...

For those who don't know, the Salang Pass links Kabul to northern Afghanistan. If the pass and/or tunnel is blocked, the only way north is west through the Shibar Pass to Bamiyan and then back east by the Ajar Valley to Khinjan and finally north again -- probably adds two days to the trip. It took the Russians about six years to build the 2-3 kilometer long tunnel, and at altitude of 11,000 feet, it's said to be the highest tunnel in the world.

With the best winter snow in years, both the Salang and Khinjan rivers are flowing to the max. Everything is lush and green -- corn and grapes and apples who know what everywhere. Lots of people too -- frolicking in the river and drinking tea (or beer) on the hillsides. A great day. Wish y'all could have joined me.

Connected with PARSA and Marnie G and husband Norm. Had dinner last night at their house in Karte-Seh -- sad to say, not too far from where Margie grew up. Know she wanted to see Kabul one last time. Marnie has adopted a jui dog and a kitten, and bought a bunch of birds at the bird bazaar. I think they plan to stay awhile. Nice to know Mary can retire if she wishes and PARSA will go on. Marnie's also planning a trip to Bamiyan and Band-i-Amir. Now I know this short trip home will be complete!

"Kabul be zar basha be barf ne" -- "May Kabul be without gold before she's without snow"

Love and peace - Van

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August 30, 2005
A Salang Pass Picnic

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Approaching the little village of Jabal Seraj which marks the start of the Salang Pass. Only an hour to the tunnel. Maybe less, Kabir still drives like a crazy man.
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Lunch in Jabal Seraj. Saw a place that advertised pizza, but opted for a traditional chaikhana or tea house.
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I think I like this spot.
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The game is called "Who Can Get to the Most Dangerous Rock Without Falling on his Ass." Kabir's brother won.
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An interesting way to catch trout. Don't believe an American game warden would approve.
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Amazing. You can now buy a beer at a dokaan by the Khinjan River in the middle of nowhere.
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Only small patches of snow on the highest peaks in late August. No sign of the 70's ski lodge.
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Approaching the north end of the Salang Tunnel.
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The north end of the Salang Tunnel hasn't changed much since the 60's. Wasn't the portal painted white?
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The beautiful Salang Valley. Show this to your friends who think Afghanistan is all barren rock!!!
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The newly reburbished Kabul Hotel (now called the Kabul Serena) near Pashtunistan Square should be opening "real soon now." Zarnagar Park is on my other left.
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For Michelle -- yes, cars still run over new carpets for that antique and expensive look. Before cars, I'd bet they used ghadis -- hoofprints in your carpet anyone?

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