Have met some really strange American "tourists" at the Mustafa Hotel. They sit around talking like authorities on Afghanistan, impressing each other with their exploits. If I hear "Have you 'done' Bamiyan?" one more time, I think I'm gonna puke. One guy was expounding on the wonders of Herat, but when I asked him what hotel he stayed at, he was stuck for an answer. Another boasts that he's been coming to Afghanistan since the 70's, but can barely speak a word of Farsi. Hmmmm. Anyway, they've learned I'm not easy to impress and not afraid to challenge and cut through the bullshit. I am now avoided like the plague.

Still women in chaderi, but many are not wearing it in the traditional manner. Some are open in the front, proudly showing their traditional Afghan dress. Others are worn like a cape, not even covering the face. Like blue Draculas, they stride confidently down the streets of Kabul. The chaderi seem shorter too. Lots of dainty sandals and painted toes peeking out here and there.

Finally got the real scoop on the old US Embassy from an Afghan who works there. The US still controls the property (99 year lease?) and it's currently used as a warehouse and storage facility. How many years? Many. What's stored there? Many things -- chairs, tables, beds, etc. Sounds improbable, but your favorite childhood table or chair could be there just waiting for you. I know I could find my desk. I carved my initials on it when I was once grounded for life. Can't remember what I did, but it couldn't have been that bad. Ha!

Don't believe what you read in the news. Found out the Prime Minister of India did not lay the cornerstone for the Parliament Building (you were right Maggi -- it didn't make a lot of sense). Only fitting that our old buddy, His Majesty Muhammad Zahir Shah, did the honors. Still haven't found out if the building will be new construction or a renovation of Darulaman Palace. It's tough. All these grand ceremonies, but for security reasons, no one knows exactly where or when. Will try to keep y'all posted.

Marnie G called and we're off to Bamiyan and Band-i-Amir in the morning. Old friend Wahid is driving. The look on Marnie's face last year when Wahid took off his leg in the chaikhanah -- priceless. You could read her thoughts -- "Oh my God, I've hired a one legged driver." Won't be out of touch as in the past. My Roshan mobile phone works there now and all they have to do is crank up the generator at the Internet cafe and I'm online. Yep, an Internet cafe where they've never had paved roads or electricity. Ahhh, the wonders of modern technology. Gotta see if they're having any luck finding that third Buddha and check up with the status of that laser light show.

Love and peace - Van

Index August 30, 2005: A Salang Pass Picnic August 31, 2005: Shar-i-Nau Park and Vicinity September 6, 2005: A Walk Around Kabul September 10, 2005: Qargha Lake and the Kabul Golf Course September 11, 2005: The Valley of the Buddhas (Part 1) September 11, 2005: The Valley of the Buddhas (Part 2) September 14, 2005: Old Memories and Some New September 20, 2005: Kabul Life September 26, 2005: Kabul Desert Classic, Kabul Golf Club, Qargha Lake, Kabul, Afghanistan October 2005: Construction of the American University of Afghanistan from the ruins of AISK Back to top Please Register and/or login. Username: Password: (I forgot my password) Log me on automatically each visit

September 6, 2005 A Walk Around Kabul Always time for a little mid-morning kite flying at the Ariana Guest House. It took the manager's master touch to get this one up. Sadly, the Khyber Restaurant has faded into history. The Ministry of Finance now occupies the entire building. The Cinema Ariana is showing "Bullet", but this ain't no Steve McQueen flick. Sadly yes, the once reasonably healthy Kabul River looks and smells like the ugly, unsanitary garbage pit it has become. Shopping day and this somber looking fellow is divvying up the contents of the family cookie jar. Now for some serious shopping!!! Notice the bright red outfit under the blue chaderi. Junior would rather be flying a kite. Our old hangout, the Spinzar Hotel, has been renovated and is open for business. Can anyone say "Duke of Earl?" Gerry, the tall building next to the Spinzar Hotel is the Ministry of Communications. (view from Zarnegar Park) The Mausoleum of Amir Abdur Rahman (ruled 1880-1901) in Zarnegar (Adorned with Gold) Park. The backside of the mausoleum is getting some much needed repair work. Kabul must preserve its proud and colorful history for future generations. Of course, the building crew wouldn't let me leave without a photo. The gentleman on the right is on-site from Kabul University. Back to top