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What else can I say except I hope to return to this special place, this Bamiyan Valley, every year for the rest of my life. The high mountains of the Hindu Kush offer their mystery; the many small farms and orchards offer their fuits, nuts, and vegetables; the people offer their smiles and hospitality; and the whole offers peace and simplicity in a world of too much turmoil. Oops, almost forgot -- and the Bamiyan River offers its rainbow trout.

Strange how the valley is possibly Afghanistan's best chance to attract tourism, yet is almost totally neglected by the Afghan government. Money has been allocated for much needed road improvements, but, other than a few new bridges, nothing has been done and $35-$40 million seems to have "disappeared." The Bamiyan Hotel, operated by the Ministry of Tourism, is a mess and I understand people only stay there when the Roof of Bamiyan Hotel (a private business) is full. The food in the Bamiyan Hotel restaurant is "unhealthy and disgusting" and even the people who stay there eat at the Roof of Bamiyan. Also, no one to collect money to see the buddhas up close; yes, we bribed the guards to get in.

Much of this might be due to the low social status of the Hazara, but it seems to me that "the powers that be" are shooting themselves in the foot. As they say, "one hell of a way to run a railroad." But there is hope. From what I hear, there's much dissatisfaction with the various ministries. Maybe after the elections, the polical appointees will get the boot and we'll see some real administrators. Inshallah.

Love and peace - Van

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September 11, 2005
The Valley of the Buddhas (Part 1)

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Marnie cooling her tootsies. Numerous pit stops are in order on the 8+ hour bone jarring journey to Bamiyan.
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The girls wanted privacy at this chaikhanah (teahouse) in the bazaar, but didn't know about the entrance to the private room. What a hoot!
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Drivers Wahid and Ahmed (left and center) having tea with the hotel manager (right). Always smiling, one-legged Wahid is a quite a character.
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The signs of war are fading from this beautiful valley. If only the people can forget. They must stop the cycle of violence.
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Shopping for lunch on the road to Band-i-Amir. We settled on grapes, tomatoes, onions, and melons.
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Dropping down from the high and desolate mountains, we glimpse a blaze of sapphire blue -- the fabulous lakes at Band-i-Amir.
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"The Place Where Ali Stood", slew the dragon of Bamiyan, rescued the princess, and saved the people from the cruel tyrant (kinda like a Muslim St. George).
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Washing the car at the Dam of Awe. Definitely not a drive thru carwash.
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Can't think of a better spot for a picnic. We even got a trash barrel, but some people have yet to learn its purpose.
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I think I like this spot too.
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Marnie feeding leftover stale naan (bread) to some goats. The farmer's probably still wondering what the crazy foreigners were doing to his goats.
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Wanted to see this wheat threshing machine in action, but, like so much of Afghanistan, it was broken. Settled for a group photo.

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