Elections are now over and from what I could learn, everything went pretty smooth. Only heard about a couple of relatively minor incidents -- three rockets did minimal damage to an industrial area off Airport Road and an IED went "boom" near the Canadian base at the end of Darulaman. Note that both incidents occurred on the outskirts of Kabul; it appears the Taliban don't have the ability or the balls to directly challenge the city's road blocks and other security measures. Maybe a little more happening down Kandahar way, but don't think this is much considering what they threatened. The city was so quiet it reminded me of old Kabul, our magic kingdom, everything so very peaceful with hardly any cars on the streets. Speaking of "ancient" Kabul, I must talk too much about the old days with my Afghan friends. Now, instead of addressing me as Mr. Van, I am now called (with affection I hope), Mr. Chel Saal Pesh -- Mr. Forty Years Ago. Oh well, call me anything you want, just don't call me late for diner, especially if we're having fresh hot naan, kebabs, and melon. And, speaking of kebabs, I spent several hours watching our cook prepare kebab-i-afghani and took meticulous notes. I'll try it out this winter, and if all goes well, I will share with anyone who is interested. (Pauline -- I think this is right up Don's alley.)

I am constantly amazed with how vibrant and alive the people of Kabul are; everyone hustling and bustling to make a living and improve their situation. Even during downtime, the conversations over tea in the shops and chaikhanas are highly animated, with an occasional strident speech accompanied by much hand waving. Politics or business no doubt. Yesterday, I watched a man with crippled feet make his way down the street on cloth-wrapped hands and knees. As he neared a crowd, a clear path would open before him. As he made his way across the street, rush hour traffic would magically stop. Most likely a former Mojahed (holy warrior), one could easily see pride, determination, and a bit of arrogance in his demeanor. I thought to myself, "Self-pity is definitely not in this man's nature." Occasionally, someone on the street would approach him, and after an exchange of greetings, bills would change hands. "That's the way it should be," I thought, "Afghans helping Afghans, the fortunate gladly sharing with the less fortunate." I can only hope similar scenarios are playing out in New Orleans.

On the lighter side, you know you've been in Kabul to long when ...

You no longer bother removing large prehistoric insects from the bath before you shower.

You haven't shaved your legs for six months and really don't give a damn.

You step in a jui (sewage ditch) and don't even bother to wash your foot.

Being stopped at road blocks and having several AK47's pointed at your head is just considered mildly annoying.

You see five women in chaderi (burqa) walking toward you and you can tell immediately which one is your cleaning lady.

It seems natural to get in your car, drunk, with your friends, to find the scene of the latest rocket impact, sharing a six-pack with your chowkidar (watchman) who's holding a shotgun in the backseat.

You don't mind when the barber smears rancid lamb fat on your face to smoothen the shave.

You wake up at 6am on the floor of someone else's guesthouse, after a hard night with the Merlot, with the breath of a thousand dead donkeys, face like a Big Mac, hair like a bird's nest, and the first thing you think of is, "Where the hell is my chaderi (burqa) when I need it."

Yu start speling licke the Afghans in yer afice.

You go home to the good ol' USA and describe your destination to the taxi driver as the 3rd lane off the 6th street of the north road, through the traffic circle, past the dead tree, look for the school, and it's the second green gate on the right.

Love and peace - Van

PS -- Again, a strange selection of photos; Scorpion requests you know.

Index August 30, 2005: A Salang Pass Picnic August 31, 2005: Shar-i-Nau Park and Vicinity September 6, 2005: A Walk Around Kabul September 10, 2005: Qargha Lake and the Kabul Golf Course September 11, 2005: The Valley of the Buddhas (Part 1) September 11, 2005: The Valley of the Buddhas (Part 2) September 14, 2005: Old Memories and Some New September 20, 2005: Kabul Life September 26, 2005: Kabul Desert Classic, Kabul Golf Club, Qargha Lake, Kabul, Afghanistan October 2005: Construction of the American University of Afghanistan from the ruins of AISK Back to top Please Register and/or login. Username: Password: (I forgot my password) Log me on automatically each visit

September 20, 2005 Kabul Life Not even the Minar-i-Maiwand monument on Jadi Maiwand is immune to political posters. FYI, Sarah, this is a memorial to a brave young Afghan woman, Malalai, for her role in the Battle of Maiwand. Kabul's Ghazi Stadium, site of Taliban atrocities, is often mistakenly referred to as the Olympic Stadium. No shootings now, just football games. The Masoleum of King Nadir Shah (ruled 1929 - 1933) sits atop Tepe Maranjan. The field in the foreground was once Kabul's first golf course (early 1900's I believe). Used only during important religious or politcal events, the impressive Id Gah Mosque sits across the street from Ghazi Stadium. That's "TV Mountain" in the background. Party time at the Ariana Guest House. According to the cook, we are having "meat of sheep" and "meat of chicken." I just have to chuckle a bit at some translations. I want one of these, but it won't fit in my suitcase. Don't worry about Madan, he always looks somewhat stoned. Rebuilding the streets and water works in Karte-Seh. Yep, that's a fire hydrant. For you early 60's people, Dave Garber's old house is the last house on the right. PARSA is close by. Baba, the Ariana Guest House gardener and handyman, proudly displays his voter registration card and ink-stained finger. Danny suggested I move to PARSA's guesthouse. Maybe -- over the years I have become close friends with the owner and staff of the Ariana Guest House and it's home to me. I thnk someone asked "What's a Macroroyan?" Briefly stated, it's a complex of Soviet built highrise concrete block apartment buildings -- ugly, but functional. Back to top